Ica: Islas Ballestas, Sand Buguis y Cuentos de Brujas

While waking up at 6am was certainly difficult, our 12 hour day of tours, sites, stories and information made it completely worthwhile.


First up was a tour of Islas Ballestas, a group of 22 islands a bit north of Ica inhabited by millions of birds and a few cute sea lions (Lobos Marinos = Sea Wolves in Spanish).  On our 30 minute boat ride to a few of the most populated rocky islands we stopped to view a magnificent Candelabra in the side of a giant sand dune.  While the history of the image remains unknown, our guide Miguel shared a few of the creation myths with us.

The first story is that pirates created the image as a marker for the huge treasurer that they found/hid in the area.  Treasure hunting anyone?  Others think that the candelabra must be connected with the Nasca lines that the figure points towards.


As we motored to our destination the sheer volume of 2 million birds finally took form.  Despite being far less than the 50 million that was said to have lived here before Peru fought a war with Chile and had to pay the UK for their weapons with guano rights.  Miguel proudly declared that guano was the world's best fertilizer, but acknowledged that Peruvians didn't use it because it was too expensive.

That black area is ALL birds!

Still the 2 million inhabitants were more than impressive and as I viewed the giant flocks of pelicanos perucano and other birds I couldn't help but deduct that the guano harvests must be simply extraordinary.  However Miguel said that guano can only be collected every 6 years because it was not accumulating as fast as it had with a larger population.


Tiny groups of pinguinos de Humboldt quirkily hopped from rock to rock before gracefully diving into the Pacifico sur.  On the western side of the island groups of lobos marinochusco turned yellow in the sun as their flanks dried off.  As a few divers caught wiggling octupi from small fishing boats we returned to shore for souvenirs (got my Peru patch!!) and a quick snack (rice pudding with a supposedly apple purple jelly on top for me.

Next we came back to the hotel for a quick lunch before a short city tour and a trip to a local winery.  In Ica's central square we learned about the significance of the tower's 7 supports as symbols of Ica's lagoons.  Known as the City of Eternal Sun, Ica's blazing rays could be felt as our faces turned red from heat.



Next we journeyed to a local Bodega to learn about local wine and Pisco-making techniques.  Out of the 84 registered Bodegas in Ica only 3 are industrial so we were able to get a look at the true artesian process as El Catador.


First up the grapes are sorted into 4 groups based on color and other factors.  Next the uvas are stomped on for 10 continuous hours before being put into a giant strainer where a press made from the arrango tree separates stems and seeds for the juice.  After that the juice is fermented in a wide variety of ceramic jugs before undergoing distillation in a copper well.

Now comes the most anticipated part of the day: Bugui rides and sand boarding in the giant dunes on the outskirts of Ica!


As we drove towards the dunes I couldn't believe how giant they looked up close.  Like I imagine the deserts of the Sahara and Gobi to look, these mountains towered in the sky and from the base looked absolutely amazing.

But my first thought was, "Oh no!  No tengo gafas de sol!  I should have listened to my mom when she wanted to give me sunglasses!!"  Luckily our bugui driver Fernando loaned me some styling safety glasses and we were off!


Up, down and around the bugui was just like a free-form roller coaster with girls hooting and hollering behind me (Smugglers Run anyone?).  But my quick glance at Fernando showed no trace of a smile, guess the glee and adrenaline must wear off after a while.  Not for us though!  Just as we reached a peak we were freed from the bugui and climbed a giant dune, which MUST be the birthplace of the stairmaster.  After photos we were off again, doing donuts in the sand as I tried not to think about the inevitable environmental effects of the buguis.

Soon we were let out again for a new adventure: sand boarding!  Without time to think I was whooshing down a hill belly first on a waxed board with instructions to dig my feet in to steer and stop.  Luckily I remembered to keep my mouth closed during the ride down but after I couldn't stop smiling.  Fortunately we got to go 2 more times, each new hill looking larger than the last.


By the end I was tired and had sand everywhere, but our entire group was exhilarated as we all asked, "Can you believe we are sledding down sand dunes?  In PERU??"  I slipped on my shoes as we got back on the bus for a round-about route back to Ica.


First we had to learn about some local Witch stories.  We stopped off at the site of 6 trees all growing from the same location, lit only by the headlights of our rides.  In soft Spanish the guide told us that the brujas had made a pact with the devil to sacrifice one young virgin witch each year for great powers.  But one year the sacrifice ran away and hid in the heart of 7 trees.  As the rest of the brujas followed a battle ensued, and as spells were flung back and forth the trees grew contorted and are as they looked now, like the Lock Ness monster weaving into and out of the ground.  Before she died the young witch cursted the tree and city saying that if the 7th trunk was ever allowed to grow then the city would disappear.  To this day the townspeople still cut the 7th trunk off annually.


After a few more stops we headed back to the city centre for Chinese food before collapsing into bed.


Lessons Learned:

1. Sunglasses, always.
2. Shoes and socks off BEFORE stepping into a giant dune.
3. Go to the bathroom every chance you get, AND bring toilet paper...just in case.